Women's Sweater Size Guide
Clothing size charts for women are based on 1939-1941 data collection of women's body measurements that only included white women aged 18-30. Size charts today still strongly reflect this data, including for knitting. Over the last decade, some sweater designers have worked to change that. Read on to participate in a survey toward creating a size chart for knitting that represents women's bodies today.
History of women's size charts
Did you know that modern size charts for women's clothing are based on data collection in the US from 1939-41? The survey was conducted by R. O'Brien and W. C. Shelton through the Bureau of Home Economics and their research became the model for sizing throughout the world. The problem is that the research was carried out on a relatively small group of white women aged 18-30 - not at all inclusive then nor representative today of women's bodies.
The history of women's size charts is rather fascinating and astonishingly, many size charts still strongly reflect the numbers used in that original research by O'Brien and Shelton. There is no 'standardized' size chart - companies create their own as part of building their own customer loyalty.
Size Charts in Knitting
The size charts for knitting have had a similar history except for the work by some modern knitwear designers to change that. In 2017, Teresa Gregorio of Canary Knits worked on sizing for petite women through her project, Knit Petite Project. She has some great articles with additional resources listed for reading more about the history of size charts. I especially appreciated this article: How did we arrive at the sizing we have today?
Ysolda Teague also has worked on size charts. Her blog post from 2017 offers her size chart. A 2019 post offers insight into choosing a sweater size.
Amy Herzog published a book in 2018 called Amy Herzog's Ultimate Sweater Book. The book is excellent for understanding sweater fit, sizing, sweater construction, and how to make adjustments so that your knit sweater will fit you.
Survey for size data collection today
Recently, I've been taking classes from Kim McBrien Evans of Indigo Dragonfly on size inclusivity in knitting. Kim currently is collecting data for her ongoing research to create a size chart for women that is inclusive and representative of women's bodies today. If you want to dive deeper into sweater fit and making alterations so sweaters will fit you, Kim offers a series of classes through Vogue Virtual Knitting Live that are worth your time. Sign up for Vogue's emails so you'll be in the know on their next virtual event class lists coming in Sept, Oct, Dec, 2024. Kim, along with Natalie Warner of Natalie in Stitches, started a new Marketplace Extra session for the Vogue Virtual events where they field knitters' questions on sweater fit and sizing. The Marketplace Extra events are included in all the class packages, as well as the marketplace only ticket. The sessions are a great introduction to Kim and Natalie's work on sizing and getting fit in your sweater knitting.
How to participate in Kim's surveys
Kim's body measurement data collection has been ongoing and you can participate in that here: Measurement Research by Kim McBrien Evans. Just last month, Kim added a new survey to tackle sizing and fit for sleeves, an area where there still is little detailed information for knitters. You can access that survey here: Sleeve Measurement Research by Kim McBrien Evans. Both surveys offer detailed instruction on how to take body measurements.
I encourage all of us to participate in Kim's research as it is, in my opinion, absolutely what is needed next to help knitters unravel the mystery of sweater fit in knitting. In talking to our June Cashmere community, sweater fit is an ongoing issue and rightly so. We invest time, money, energy to make a sweater and if the result is something that we cannot wear, it's devastating.
As always, find joy in knitting with our yarn!
-Warmly, Amy
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Standard Body Measurements/Sizing
To ensure that a finished garment will fit properly, it is important to take the following body measurements, so that you can determine what size you should make. It is always better to have someone else do the measuring. If that is not an option, you can measure a garment that fits you the way you want, and use these measurements as a guide. Most crochet and knitting pattern instructions will provide general sizing information, such as the chest or bust measurements of a completed garment. Many patterns also include detailed schematics or line drawings. These drawings show specific garment measurements(bust/chest, neckline, back, waist, sleeve length, etc.) in all the different pattern sizes. (See more about Schematics p. 25) To insure proper fit, always review all of the sizing information provided in a pattern before you begin.
Following are several sizing charts. These charts show Chest, Center Back Neck-to-Cuff, Back Waist Length, Cross Back, Sleeve Length, Upper Arm, Armhole Depth, Waist and Hip. THESE ARE ACTUAL BODY MEASUREMENTS FOR BABIES, CHILDREN, WOMEN, and MEN in both inches and centimeters.
When sizing sweaters, the fit is based on actual chest/bust measurements, plus ease (additional inches or centimeters), sometimes referred to as "negative ease" (less than the actual bust/chest measurement) or "positive ease" (more than the actual bust/chest measurement). The chart entitled “Bust/Chest Fit and Ease Chart” recommends the amount of ease to add or subtract to bust/chest measurements if you prefer a close-fitting garment, an oversized garment, or something in-between.
Bust/Chest Fit and Ease Chart Very close fitting, negative ease: Very tight fit, smaller than your actual bust/chest measurement. Approximately 2" to 4” (5 to 10cm) less than your actual bust/chest measurement Close fitting, zero ease: Body skimming, your actual bust/chest measurement. Classic fit, some positive ease: Comfortable fit slightly larger than actual bust/chest measurement. Approximately 2" to 4” (5 to 10cm) more than your actual bust/chest measurement Loose fit, more positive ease: Slightly oversized fit, larger than your actual bust/chest measurement. Approximately 4" to 6” (10 to 15cm) more than your actual bust/chest measurement Oversized, generous positive ease: Very loose fit, much larger than your actual bust/chest measurement. Approximately 6+” (15+cm) more than your actual bust/chest measurement The Length Chart provides average lengths for children’s, women’s and men’s garments.
Both the FIT and LENGTH charts are simply guidelines. For individual body differences, changes can be made in body and sleeve lengths when appropriate. However, consideration must be given to the project pattern. Certain sizing changes may alter the appearance of a garment.
Length Chart Back Waist Length Hip Length Tunic Length Child Actual body measurement 2"/5cm down from waist 6"/15cm down from waist Woman Actual body measurement 6"/15cm down from waist 11"/28cm down from waist Men Men’s length usually varies only 1–2"/2.5–5cm from the actual “back hip length” measurement
How to measure
1. Chest/Bust - Measure around the fullest part of the chest/bust. Do not draw the tape too tightly.
2. Center Back Neck–to-Wrist- With arm straight, measure from back base of neck, across shoulder, and along arm to wrist.
3. Back Waist Length- Measure from the most prominent bone at base of neck to the natural waistline.
4. Cross Back- Measure from shoulder to shoulder.
5. Arm Length- With arm slightly bent, measure from armpit to wrist.
6. Upper Arm- Measure around the widest section of the upper arm located above the elbow.
7. Armhole Depth- Measure from the top outside edge of the shoulder down to the armpit.
8. Waist- Measure your waist at the smaller circumference of your natural waist, usually just above the belly button.
9. Hip- Measure at the widest part of your lower hip.
10. Head Circumference- For an accurate head measure, place a tape measure across the forehead and measure around the full circumference of the head. Keep the tape snug for accurate results.
11. Sock Measurements- The following measurements are for crew-style or dress socks, which usually come several inches above the ankle and below the calf.
11a. Foot Circumference- To determine the foot circumference, measure around the widest part of your foot.
11b. Sock Height- To determine the height of the sock, measure from where you start to turn for the heel shaping to the top of the sock.
11c. Total Foot Length- To measure the total length of your foot, place a ruler or tape measure on the floor. Position the back of your heel at the beginning of the tape and the measure to your longest toe.
12a. Hand Circumference- Measure around the palm of your dominate hand, which is usually just below the knuckles. Exclude the thumb.
12b. Wrist Circumference- Measure around the widest part of the wrist.
12c. Hand Length- Measure from the wrist to the the base of the hand to the tip of the middle finger or to the top of the longest finger.
